Lapping the Competition

There’s something inherently quiet about most odd trousers. They tend to be made up in muted, solid colors that pair easily with a variety of garments up top — anything from a navy blazer to a polo or t-shirt. But understated need not mean boring, and for those looking for a little extra pep in your step on your next custom trousers, you might consider open lapped side-seams.      

A little shop talk is in order. A seam is “lapped” when a small width of cloth is folded over the seam and top-stitched down again. This bulkier, double-strength seam is today generally found on rugged denim or canvas workwear, although it was once also a sporty touch commonly found on better Ivy League tailored clothing. Savile Row took the lapped seam a step higher, leaving a ¼”  flange on one side “open” and top-stitching it by hand for an unmistakably bespoken flair.

Today, we are one of just a handful of custom tailors still offering this subtly unique feature. We recommend them on odd trousers made from more casual cloths — cottons, linens, linen-blends, and wool flannels — but Alan also likes them on pants for his “sport suits” made up in slightly dressier fabrics. Either way, open lapped side-seams signal membership in a pretty exclusive club.

A summer weight light brown wool, silk, and linen blend odd trouser.