By Jonathan Sigmon
Most people who commission a black jacket with me are interested in wearing it with a bit of edge – perhaps with jeans and black loafers – but often have a bit of trouble considering how to wear it beyond that. I don’t think it needs to be complicated, and I generally suggest simply viewing it as an alternative to the classic blue blazer. When when wearing it in more professional settings, this (usually) means swapping out your typical brown dress shoes for black, but otherwise the standard guidelines still apply. Below are a few ways I have been styling mine this Summer.
1) Going out
This is the idea a lot of folks have in mind when they’re thinking about a black jacket. Black is commonly regarded as a formal color in tailored clothing, and it can be intimidating to try to style it in a modern way. (A few years back, a colleague wrote a piece reckoning with the color black in men’s clothing, which you can read here.) So, to wear it with some edge requires a bit of “high/low” pairing – essentially pulling in more casual or vintage pieces to finish off the outfit. This may be office-appropriate for some folks in certain creative industries, but for most others it’s going-out attire. If I swapped the tee for a white oxford button down, and the slippers for black penny loafers, the formality would bump up enough to be suitable in many workplaces.
2- Black and brown
I like black and brown together when done thoughtfully, and this is one of the few times I’ll wear this jacket with brown shoes (the black piping and bow on the Belgian loafers helps bring it together). The rich deep tan wool/silk/linen pant is perfect for hot weather, and the black bengal stripe shirt keeps it on color theme and connects the jacket to the rest of the outfit.
3- Classic grey and blue
Grey pants with a blue shirt is a fundamental combination with a blazer, and since it tends to be the default option for men going into the office it’s worth mentioning here. I have flexibilty with what I wear, so I like to keep the texture of the fabrics as interesting as possible when wearing basic, solid colors together. Shown here is a robust 13oz Irish linen grey pant and a custom washed denim shirt. I like to think the worn-in character of these pieces pairs well with the faded vintage bronze blazer buttons.
4- A bit dandy
Frankly I rarely dress like this. It’s a bit too dandy for my tastes, as I prefer simplicity in my personal clothes. However, I wanted to show that a black blazer can be utilized in a classic-inspired way of dressing. Alan used to talk about watching his father get dressed in grey flannels, a tattersall waistcoat, white Brooks Brothers shirt, and tie, and finished with a black blazer. If it’s good enough to inspire Alan for 60 years, it’s good enough for us.
One last note – the blazer shown here is made from a 9.5oz wool and mohair mesh from Standeven in England. We use this cloth frequently in various shades of blue for more classic blazers. It’s a nice weight which helps the garment hang well on the body, and the open mesh weave keeps it reasonably breathable in the warm weather.