By Jonathan Sigmon
As a follow-up to a prior article on warm-weather trousers, here’s a look at my go-to trousers for the cooler months. Everyone’s core wardrobe will look a bit different, from the more conservative dark greys favored in traditional offices to relaxed corduroys and flannels embraced by clothing enthusiasts.
I wear tailored clothing most days of the week, and my attire generally leans towards the slightly more casual end of the spectrum. For me this includes oxford shirts, knitwear, and relaxed, patterned sport jackets. So, for odd trousers I prioritize versatile colors and textures that pair well with a wide variety of casual and more formal clothing.
Over the last several years as dress codes have shifted, I’ve found that this approach aligns with how most folks want their clothes to perform. Having worn a great deal of different trouser fabrics, these are my favorite pieces which form the foundation of my cold-weather wardrobe.
Light Brown Cavalry Twill
Perhaps the most versatile of the group, this light brown 13oz cavalry twill wears nearly like a chino with its heavily textured twill weave, and classic dark khaki color. I like to pair mine with oxford cloth and denim shirts, knitwear, and casual sport jackets.
Medium-Dark Grey 10.5oz Covert Twill
This is my cooler-weather version of the perfect pant (warm weather version here). Vitale Barberis Canonico calls it “Covert Lite” – highlighting the deep ribbing and steep twill of a covert weave. Most colors in this cloth range have a marbled effect, which comes from separately dyed yarns and weaving them together. This cloth checks all the boxes for an especially versatile grey trouser:
Excellent three-season weight that is wearable any time of year outside of peak summer
Great texture considering its fairly light weight
Versatile dark-but-not-charcoal grey shade that pairs with everything
For more on this cloth, I wrote a separate article about it here.
Charcoal 13oz Cavalry Twill
If you’re sensing a theme, you would be correct that textured twills are a house favorite. The biggest shift in my personal garment commissions over the last few years has been in the weight of the fabrics. I am frequently choosing more robust, sturdy fabrics which look great and keep me sufficiently warm when navigating the outdoors without feeling hot while inside. I’ve worn this 13/14oz charcoal twill more than any other trouser over the past couple of winters, and consider it the singular staple of my cold-weather wardrobe. It hangs beautifully, and feels very comfortable against the skin. The charcoal grey color is rather dressy, and I think pairs best with dark, similary dressy tops.
Medium-Dark Grey 10.5oz “Winter Dream”
Like most men, I wear a lot of grey, so this represents the third grey trouser out of my five favorites. In constrast to some other fabrics in this group, this one quite dressy, with a very smooth worsted 120s fine twill wool. Caccioppoli labels it “Winter Dream” due to its buttery handfeel, but frankly the Winter term is misleading as it’s a fairly solid three-season weight. My favorite element is the slight whisper of a flannel-nap finish. It’s a long way from a proper flannel, but the gentle very lightly brushed finish is lovely to wear. The smooth fine twill weave pairs best with conservative sport jackets.
Green 12oz Cotton Corduroy
I love green fabrics, and I find that this shade of green is particularly unique yet useful. You don’t see many green trousers, but it’s a surprisingly useful neutral color. It pairs nicely with the most common jacket colors (navy, brown, grey), and offers a little pop of eccentricity to otherwise classic outfits. More often than not I’ll wear mine with black, as I tend to like to push classic fabrics slightly out of the expected way of wearing them.
Bonus: Grey 12oz wool flannel and olive green 10.5oz wool and cashmere flannel
Leaving out flannels would be sacriligious for many folks. While I don’t wear these quite as much as the rest, I’d like to mention them. Frankly I wear flannels less often with proper tailored clothing, and more as a way to dress up casual outfits. The soft flannel nap is incredibly comfortable, and the textures pairs perfectly with pieces like shetland sweaters, cardigans, or just tucked-in long sleeve tees (a la Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief.)
Weights from 12oz and heavier are certainly warmer than jeans and chinos, and quite nice to have when bopping around outside casually in the Winter. Flannels in the 10oz range tend to be a little more comfortable throughout the day when you’re working inside in climate controlled environments. My go-to flannels right now include this heavier 12oz mid-grey, and lighter 10.5oz weight olive green.
