Alan Flusser Custom made our second appearance of the dais of the National Arts Club in Gramercy Park — this time for a conversation on the history, aesthetics, and future of tweed. This article has been drawn from the notes for that event, and is illustrated by the slide show which accompanied it.
Last week we introduced our remaining stock of Alan Flusser Exclusive suiting fabrics, created by Alan with Luciano Barbera and woven at the Carlo Barbera mill in Biella, Italy. Today we turn to the bolder patterns Alan created for his signature jacketings.
“My grandfather was a soldier in his youth and as my interest in clothes grew, his sense of style, both in uniform and in civilian dress, became a source of inspiration for me. Outfits that would be almost inconceivable nowadays (grey flannels for a hike in the countryside, chunky knits on the beach) look obvious on him, as if any other option would have been nonsensical.”
Soft raglan sleeves and minimal lining render the duster an incomparably comfortable extra layer that drapes beautifully and billows gracefully in a breeze. It’s essentially a coat that wears like a robe, and we think it’ll become the one you reach for more than any other.
Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project recently came by the shop to interview Alan for his blog. In this first half of their far-ranging conversation, Alan discusses his earliest work as a sartorial consultant (for his high school girlfriend’s father), his experience working for Pierre Cardin in the 1970s, and his motivation for writing the books which have made him a preeminent authority on menswear.
In its elemental simplicity, a well-cut blazer is everything good tailoring should be: easy, elegant, unassuming, and reliable. Such a stalwart companion is not something you want to cut corners on, but there’s never been a better time to get a top-quality specimen made for you without breaking the bank.
Don’t be afraid to pull out the GTH (“got to hell”) sartorial fireworks at your next backyard BBQ, because summer is the season to celebrate some of America’s greatest contributions to the classic menswear canon.
While many people obsess over their waistlines, few of us give much thought to the trouser waistbands we gird about ourselves every day. It’s worth doing so at least once, as the waist is the site of so much sartorial possibility.
“While the Easy Riding western world was gleefully casting off its meticulously constructed menswear traditions in the 1960s and 70s, it was the Japanese who picked up the pieces from the side of the road, dusted them off, and installed them as icons of timeless taste. Little surprise that when Alan Flusser emerged on the fashion scene, resplendently and unapologetically classicist, he was immediately Big in Japan.”
Within the infinite permutations of angle, scale, and mass, no single article of apparel is better able to enhance that appendage of the body that should receive the most attention — the face — than the well-designed shirt collar.
Sometimes, as well-versed as we may be in Brummelian principles of simplicity, we’re driven to satisfy a deeply personal craving for the baroque, the exotic. Sometimes, nothing but a perfectly fitted, patch-pocketed, half-belted, action-backed, three-piece suit with a lapelled vest and wide-legged, fish-tailed trousers (convertible to plus-sixes) made up in a luminescent, boldly-checked multicolor tweed will do.