A great blue blazer is everything modern tailoring should be: easy, elegant, and versatile. Somewhere between a suit and a sport jacket in dressiness, a blazer cleans up with trousers and a tie, dresses down with denim and a t-shirt, and works with anything in between.
We think it’s the first tailored garment anyone should own, and we offer it in our custom Club make in select fabrics starting at $1,750.
Why you should have one made for you
We work with you to create a garment made from a cloth that suits your lifestyle, in a color that complements your complexion, with proportions that will outlast fashion trends, and with a precise fit that will enhance your physique and move with it.
A few important design elements can be the difference between a blazer you’ll wear for decades and one that may look out of fashion in a few years. These include the overall length, the width of the lapels, the height of the gorge (where the lapel meets the collar), and the positioning of the waist button. When all of this is designed well, specifically for you, the result is a timeless garment that will serve you well year after year.
Our unconstructed model – no canvas and no shoulder pad, in a rich navy wool and linen model finished with brown horn buttons.
The unconstructed model in a rich blue pure wool hopsack weave, with open patch pockets to lend a more casual feel.
How we make ours
Our House Cut
It’s all about comfort. Our house cut features high armholes and a bit of fullness over the chest and shoulder blades for easy movement and an athletic silhouette, and we like it with a trim waist to give defined shape. A soft, lightweight, full-canvas construction molds to your body over time, becoming even better and more comfortable over the years. For a garment that is even more lightweight and easy-going, we also offer a relaxed unstructured model with no shoulder pad and no canvas, so it wears almost like an overshirt.
Hand-Tailoring
We hand-sew the armhole by hand for stretch and extra movement, and hand-finish the lapels, pockets, and the buttonholes in-shop. Throughout the fitting and alterations process, all alterations are done by our in-house tailors to ensure it’s up to our standards before passing it off to you.
Andrew’s well worn classic midnight navy blazer. The waist button position is the fulcrum of the jacket, and it hits right on his natural waist.
Brass buttons establish the iconic business blazer look.
The Options
Fabrics
For go-to versatility, the standard is lightweight worsted wool: it breathes easily, drapes well, resists wrinkles, and will take you through most of the year. A couple of our favorites are hopsack and fresco – open weaves with a bit of texture that serve well in most environments. For the cooler months, we love lightweight wool flannels that wear a bit warmer and pair well with classic cold-weather fabrics such as corduroy trousers, brushed cotton shirts, and knitwear. We’ll help you select the right weight and texture for your needs, and encourage you to consider certain shades of blue that complement your complexion.
Design
For the pockets, we tend to like slanted flap pockets and a ticket pocket. It adds a nice custom touch and sets the jacket apart from most off-the-rack options. However, it’s just fine to keep it conservative by having the pockets straight and shedding the ticket pocket option. Alternatively, opting for open patch pockets can be an interesting way to push the jacket into more casual territory.
When choosing the amount of lining, we always suggest at least a piece across the back to help the jacket slide on and off easily, but from there it’s pretty much up to you. Minimal lining is great for the warmer months when you want as much air flow as possible – this is especially effective on a fresco or other open-weave cloth. On the other end of the spectrum, full lining is a fine option for a year-round garment – it offers a bit more warmth and a layer of protection against wear and tear on the fabric.
On the matte blue field of a blazer, buttons can speak loudly. Brass buttons make a particularly old-school statement, so for clients who want to dress it up their blazers in a more modern way we recommend textured gunmetal buttons. (They also have the added benefit of pairing naturally with grey trousers.) Brown horn is equally appealing option, especially when paired with fabrics that have a bit more texture and are intended to be worn casually.
Gunmetal blazer buttons push this hopsack blazer slightly more formal.
Brown horn buttons pairs well with a more casual and textured fabrics, like this lightweight wool, silk, and linen.
Whether you’ve never had fine clothes tailored for you, or you just never got around to getting a blazer into your rotation, it is a great time to consider ordering this very well-bred workhorse.
Contact us to start the conversation. We’d be glad to walk you through what we do.