By Andrew Yamato
There is perhaps no more classic, versatile, and easy to wear necktie than a solid navy. Its simple elegance can pull together almost any ensemble without drawing attention to itself. Ralph Lauren’s natty brother Jerry has a tie wardrobe consisting of little else, and Barney’s legendary chairman Fred Pressman famously wore either a navy or black grenadine tie virtually every day of his life. The overwhelming majority of business suits are either navy or grey, both of which are particularly complemented by a dressy navy solid tie — especially one in true, dark or midnight navy.
Precisely which navy solid is ideal to wear with any given ensemble is largely a matter of choosing the right texture. As a rule, texture is an informalizing element, while a smooth or fine finish is dressier.
Silk Grenadine - With its quicksilver shimmer and informal texture, equally at home with suits and sportcoats, a navy grenadine is considered by many to be the single most versatile tie a man can own. Grenadine’s airy weave was originally intended to be worn in spring and summer with similarly open-weave shirts and jackets (most iconically in a maize yellow). Although grenadine’s textural dimensionality can pair well with tweed and flannel, there’s always a pleasure in reserving seasonal items for their intended climate.
Cashmere, and cashmere/silk blends - Luxuriously cozy seasonal staples that harmonize well with the heavier, textured cloths like tweed, flannel, and corduroy.
Silk Satin - The smooth handle, lustrous refinement, and elemental simplicity of satin solids make them among the dressiest neckties, best worn with suits, and particularly chic when paired with a suit possessing some contrasting texture (e.g. flannel, shangtung silk, mohair). A favorite of Cary Grant and a signature of his minimalist style.
Ribbed Silk Twill - Slightly less dressy and precious than a satin, the solid ribbed silk twill tie is perhaps the plainest of all necktie styles, best used to anchor and harmonize with patterned shirts, suits, and pocket squares.
Linen - With its nubby texture, linen makes for an inherently informal tie, ideal for smartening up casual summer ensembles.
Silk Seersucker - A bit more refined than cotton seersucker, silk seersucker retains its country cousin’s knockabout feel while adding a bit of depth and luster to the matte textures of summer poplins, linens, and tropical wools. It can also be a chic partner for dressier summer cloths like dupioni silk or mohair.
Silk Jacquard - Self-woven patterns enliven a sober solid ties, but a poorly designed weave can read as slick, or in Alan’s garmento idiom, “a bit 7th Avenue.” However, when you find an high-brow version like this self-stripe, they can add an understated elegance to your outfit.